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🧵 Fabric Inspection in Garment Manufacturing: A Complete 2025 Guide to Quality and Compliance



In the world of garment manufacturing, fabric quality is everything. A perfect design, fit, or finish can still fail if the fabric itself isn’t right. That’s why a strong fabric inspection procedure is one of the most important parts of any apparel quality assurance system.

A single overlooked roll of defective fabric can lead to cutting loss, rework, shipment delays — and even buyer claims. To avoid that, leading factories now follow a structured 4-point fabric inspection system that ensures every yard of fabric meets the required standard before it reaches the cutting table.

Let’s walk through the complete 2025 version of a professional Fabric Inspection Procedure — updated to match global buyer expectations and sustainable manufacturing practices.

The Purpose Behind Fabric Inspection

The main goal of fabric inspection is simple:
Catch defects early, before cutting.

Inspecting the fabric right after in-house receiving helps ensure only defect-free, shade-approved, and dimensionally stable fabric goes into production.

It’s not just a technical step — it’s part of a company’s quality culture.

What It Covers

Fabric inspection applies to all fabric types — woven, knitted, denim, blends, jacquards, and even technical materials. Whether sourced locally or imported, every batch is checked under controlled lighting and measured using the 4-point system.

Who’s Responsible

Fabric inspection is a team effort:

  • Fabric Inspectors / QA Team – Check defects, record points, and ensure compliance.
  • Store Team – Handle receiving, quarantine, and documentation.
  • Merchandising / Sourcing – Communicate with suppliers and ensure corrective actions.
  • QA Manager – Analyzes inspection data, rates suppliers, and approves material release.

What You Need Before Inspection

Before the first roll goes onto the inspection machine, the following should be ready:

  • Supplier’s fabric inspection report
  • Delivery chalan and packing list
  • Customer-approved fabric standard (shade band or hand-feel sample)
  • Fabric inspection machine with both reflective and transmitted light
  • Calibrated counter meter and adjustable speed control
  • Trained fabric inspectors who have passed color and defect recognition tests, 2 person will not inspect more than 2 hours continuously.

The Fabric Inspection Process Step by Step

Sampling

Normally, 10% of the total lot or 1000 meters (whichever is higher) is inspected for each batch.

  • At least three rolls per batch must be checked.
  • For new suppliers or high-risk fabric types, factories inspect 20% until consistent results are achieved.
  • If a batch is below 1000 meters, it’s inspected 100%.

Setting the Scene: Light, Speed & Distance

Fabric inspection is done under controlled conditions:

  • Light Intensity: Over 1000 Lux, using D65 or TL84 lights (buyer approved)
  • Speed: 8–15 meters per minute, depending on fabric type
  • Viewing Distance: About 3 feet
  • Viewing Angle: 45°–60°

The goal is to create an environment where even small holes or streaks can’t hide.

The 4-Point Fabric Inspection System

Every defect found is tagged on the fabric using arrow stickers — so both sides can be easily identified later.

Defects are scored based on their size:

Defect Size (inches)

Points

0 – < 3 in.

1

3 – < 6 in.

2

6 – < 9 in.

3

6 – 36 in.

4

Any hole = 4 points
For H&M programs, holes under 1 inch = 2 points, over 1 inch = 4 points (as per their fabric manual).

A single defect can never exceed 4 points, no matter how severe.

Calculating Total Points

After all rolls are checked, the score is calculated:

Points per 100 sq. yds=Total Defect Points × 100Yards Inspected\text{Points per 100 sq. yds} = \frac{\text{Total Defect Points × 100}}{\text{Yards Inspected}}Points per 100 sq. yds=Yards InspectedTotal Defect Points × 100​

The fabric is then compared against acceptance limits.

Fabric Acceptance Levels (2025 Standard)

Fabric Type

Max Points per Roll (100 sq yds)

Average per Lot (100 sq yds)

Polyester / Nylon / Acetate

20

16

Denim / Canvas / Poplin / Oxford / Rayon / Wool

24

18

Jacquard / Corduroy / Velvet / Stretch / Blends / Fine Silk

28

20

Linen / Muslin

32

24

Doupioni / Light Silk / Georgette

40

32

If the buyer provides a specific requirement (for example, H&M or M&S), that standard always takes priority.

When a Batch Fails

If the first 10% inspection fails, a second inspection of 15% must be done with the supplier’s representative present.

If the second round also fails, the factory conducts a 100% inspection or returns the lot to the supplier for correction or replacement.

Recordkeeping & Traceability

Every inspection report is archived — physically or digitally — for at least 12 months.
Reports include:

  • Roll numbers
  • Defect mapping
  • Total points per roll
  • Shade, GSM, and shrinkage records
  • Supplier performance trend

All findings are shared with QA and Merchandising to maintain transparency and improve supplier rating.

Lighting, Calibration & Sustainability

Today’s inspections go beyond visual checks.

  • Light boxes and inspection machines are calibrated yearly.
  • Bulbs are replaced every 12 months to maintain true color.
  • All fabrics are screened for chemical safety compliance — OEKO-TEX®, ZDHC, or REACH standards.
  • Any fabric showing chemical odor or contamination is held for lab testing.

Why This Process Matters

Fabric inspection isn’t just about catching visible defects — it’s about protecting production flow, reducing waste, and building trust with global buyers.

A small hole caught in inspection saves rework.
A color mismatch caught early prevents claim losses.
A properly rated supplier helps stabilize your sourcing base.

Simply put: quality control at the fabric stage is the most cost-effective stage to prevent production issues.

Fabric Inspection in 2025 — The Bigger Picture

The modern apparel industry isn’t only chasing defect-free fabric; it’s also focused on traceability, sustainability, and accountability.
Factories now use digital inspection logsAI-based fabric scanners, and eco-friendly storage practices to meet evolving buyer expectations.

But even with all this technology, one thing never changes —

“The trained human eye is still the best fabric inspector.”

Final Thoughts

A structured fabric inspection procedure ensures:

  • Consistent product quality
  • Smooth production flow
  • Fewer buyer rejections
  • Strong supplier partnerships

If your inspection floor follows a documented, well-calibrated 4-point system — congratulations — you’re already on par with the world’s best factories.

Because in garment manufacturing, quality always begins with fabric.

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